There's more than enough for a crew to see and do in this bustling port on the Chesapeake.
By Katie and Gene Hamilton
Baltimore has been a favorite destination of ours for years, and we're not alone in our appreciation for this popular port on the Chesapeake Bay. For many local boaters and cruising clubs, it tops the list of must-do destinations every season. Those who run the Great Loop in the spring, as well as snowbirds heading south in the fall, also keep Baltimore on their float plans. It's a busy, international seaport and bustling urban center, yet it seems as if it was designed with recreational boaters in mind because there's so much to see and do once you're tied up. There's a mix of old and new neighborhoods, museums of all types, world-class shopping and restaurants from funky to fine, all close to the marinas that line the shoreline of the Inner Harbor. It's no wonder Baltimore is called Charm City.
To make an approach from the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, simply follow the buoys marking the shipping lanes (commercial traffic is impressive) as they veer west toward the Patapsco River. The entrance to the river is just off North Point, and it's a 10-mile run up to the Inner Harbor. You'll go under the Francis Scott Key Bridge and pass Curtis Bay. At Fort McHenry, you'll take the starboard branch of the river, leaving much of the commercial traffic behind. Along the way, you'll pass through the hardworking harbor lined with both gray Navy vessels and shiny white cruise ships.
As you enter the Inner Harbor, you'll see the city skyline and a cluster of neighborhoods — seaport communities, really — on the north side of the river. Canton is first, then the warehouses and cityscape of Fells Point come into view. To port, you can't miss the iconic Domino Sugar sign towering overhead on the south shore at Locust Point. The river swings northward to a basin with Inner Harbor East Marina on the north shore; it's across from Inner Harbor Marine Center at the Rusty Scupper on the south shore.
This is the inner sanctum of Charm City, and it draws millions of visitors every year. (The convention center alone pulls plenty of traffic.) When you come by boat, you have a ringside seat. Once you've secured your dock lines, you're ready to head ashore. The water taxi is the easiest way to get around. For $9 you can use it all day to get to and from 17 landings. En route, you'll pass paddle boats, tour boats and even a pirate ship with water hoses disguised as cannons. Baltimore is also well-known for its fleet of historic ships.
If you're cruising with young passengers, they'll want to see Port Discovery, one of the top children's museums in the country. The National Aquarium is the centerpiece of the harbor. It's located across from the Maryland Science Center in Federal Hill. Walk to the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the harbor that's tough to beat.
You're in Birdland now, so baseball fans can catch a game if the Orioles are in town. If they're on the road, you can still tour their park at Camden Yards, which is an easy walk from the Inner Harbor. In the fall, it's a short cab ride to watch the Ravens play.
For a culture fix, take a walking tour of the Mount Vernon area, where you'll find incredible architecture and The Walters Art Museum. You can also take in a live theater performance at Centerstage or enjoy the Baltimore Symphony Orchestra.
To see all the sights of the city, try a trolley tour. It will take you beyond the harbor and into the neighborhoods you passed on the way in. Two of our favorite trolley stops are the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad Museum and the American Visionary Art Museum with a 55-foot-high whirligig in the treetops.
If someone in your crew is on a mission to shop until she drops, head for Harborplace Shopping and The Gallery in the heart of the Inner Harbor. For eclectic and specialty shops, visit Fells Point, Canton and Federal Hill (the water taxi makes stops at these locations). Can there be too many things to see and do in Baltimore? When you're cruising here, once is really not enough.
Where to Stay
Marinas are plentiful in Baltimore, and many welcome transient boaters, but reservations are required, especially on summer weekends. In Canton, facilities include the Anchorage Marina (www.anchoragemarina.com) and Baltimore Marine Center (www.baltimoremarinecenter.com). In Fells Point, there is Henderson's Wharf Inn and Marina (www.hendersonswharf.com) and the Crescent Marina (410-977-6395).
If you want to stay at the Inner Harbor, there are public docks (410-396-3174) at the foot of the Intercontinental Hotel near the Visitors Center. Note, however, they are available on a first-come, firstserve basis. The Inner Harbor East Marina (410-625-1700) is across from the Inner Harbor Marine Center at the Rusty Scupper (www.baltimoreinnerharbormarinecenter.com) in Federal Hill. Nearby is HarborView Marina & Yacht Club (www.thebayguide.com/harborview) and Tidewater Yacht Service at Port Covington (www.tysc.com) in south Baltimore.
What to Do
Before you go, order a visitors guide from the Baltimore Visitors Center (www.baltimore.org) or pick one up at the base of the Inner Harbor between the Science Center and Harborplace. As for dining recommendations, we have a few: In Canton, try the Claddagh Pub or Helen's Garden on O'Donnell Square. In Fells Point, try Ze Mean Bean Cafe on Fleet Street. For breakfast, don't miss the Blue Moon Cafe on Aliceanna Street. For Italian cuisine and pastries, go to any restaurant in Little Italy. A short cab ride downtown will get you to Tio Pepe Restaurante on Franklin Street. For a day trip, rent a car and head for Annapolis, particularly if you're in town for the annual powerboat show. This year it opens on Oct. 15.
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