Follow our guide for cruising through the Outer Banks.
By Pierce Hoover
The Intracoastal Waterway is often described as a sheltered inside passage, but there are portions that can get really nasty when the weather kicks up. This is exactly what happened as you made your way south through Pamlico Sound in North Carolina. Two days of squall lines and bashing into short, steep chop has left the cabin damp and in disarray. Everyone is cold, and your first mate is threatening mutiny. By pushing on until dark, you could make it to the shelter of the Cedar Creek anchorage, but a night on the hook doesn't sound all that appealing. It's time to get off the boat, dry out and warm up — if only for the night.
A Warming Welcome N 35.086/W 76.600
At marker four you turn to starboard and follow the channel up Broad Creek and into Grace Harbor. If your charts aren't up to date, this man-made basin may not show up in print, as it was completed only two years ago as part of an ambitious development project known as River Dunes (www.riverdunes.com). When completed, this planned waterfront community will be one of the premier addresses on the central North Carolina coast. Many of the luxury houses and public amenities are yet to come, but the marina is open for business, offering a full range of first-class amenities.
The waterfront complex's sparkling new washrooms, clubhouse and hot tub would provide ample pampering under most circumstances. But tonight, you are going all-out and renting one of the resort's cozy guest cottages, complete with fireplace. You catch up on the college scores on the plasma TV while the mate takes a long soak in a vintage claw-foot tub. SThen it's off to dinner at the lodge. Domestic tranquility is restored.
Just Around the Corner N 35.025/W 76.701
After sleeping late then taking a dip in the pool, you just aren't all that motivated to get started. The weather has moderated a bit, but the Sound still has a 2-foot chop that will seem more comfortable at displacement speeds. To ease back into the cruising routine, start with a short hop to the village of Oriental. Though often considered the sailing capital of North Carolina, this working-class village is not exactly Newport south. The town's compact working waterfront is filled with shrimpers and draggers, and there are no sidewalks, much less boardwalks. You are welcome to tie up at the small town pier while enjoying lunch. The favorite choice in these parts is M&M's Cafe. Today's lunch special is a grouper Reuben, and the crab quesadilla looks tempting as well. Before leaving, make sure to check out the works by local artists that are displayed around the dining room.
Sated and with legs stretched, you are ready for an easy 45-minute crossing of the mouth of the Neuse River to the Andres Creek Canal. By 3:30 p.m., you are exiting Core Creek and looking for the channel to port that will lead you into downtown Beaufort.
Stay a While N 34.687/W 76.637
The historic town of Beaufort is not only one of the more scenic stops along the central ICW, it's also a good place to spend a few days regrouping and relaxing. Your slip at the Town Docks (252-728-2503) is located right on Front Street within easy walking distance of perennial favorite restaurants such as Clawson's and the Dock House. Thanks to the availability of a courtesy car, supermarkets and the various marine suppliers in nearby Morehead City are all within easy range.
In addition to restocking and attending to any minor repairs that cropped up on the way south, you'll find Beaufort is a great place to spend a couple of days at play. Area beaches are just a dinghy ride away, while a rental car takes you to Cape Lookout National Seashore. Join a guided kayak tour (piratequeenpaddling.com) or head across the bridge to the Morehead waterfront for a day of offshore fishing. Someday you might splurge on a marlin hunt on one of the high-dollar, big-game yachts, but this time you'll be satisfied with a day aboard the 100-foot party boat.You should return to port with some nice grouper or snapper for the grill (www.continentalshelf.com).
Good thing you built a few extra days into your cruise plan because the Beaufort area has plenty to keep you busy. When you do finally cast off and head down Bogue Sound, everyone aboard should be in a far better state of mind, and the rough passage of just a few days ago will have already morphed into a favorite seafaring tale.
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