Virtual Voyage: South to the Sound

 
Take a journey down Deep Creek.

By Pierce Hoover

From the Chesapeake Bay, you made your way south, crossing the Hampton Roads in Virginia and marveling at the amassed warships berthed at the Norfolk Naval Shipyard. At the mouth of the Elizabeth River — mile zero of the Intracoastal Waterway — you had a choice. To the right, the waterway led to the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal. Were you in a bigger boat, this would be your best way south. But with a draft of just under 4 feet and an overall length of 40 feet, you had another option.
  
Bear left at the I-64 bridge and you'd be headed for Deep Creek and the northern end of the historic Dismal Swamp Canal. But with evening fast approaching, a detour seemed in order, so you continued south for a half-mile and put into the Chesapeake Marina (templetonproperties.us). Now, it's time for a quiet dinner at the marina's Amber Lantern Restaurant, followed by an evening relaxing aboard.
 
Swamps and Roses N 36.299/W 76.218
 
Rested and ready the next morning, you enter the Deep Creek lock and are ushered into the canal. For the next 20 miles, you'll be moving at no-wake speed along one of the most picturesque sections of the entire waterway. Don't let the scenery distract you, however, as there are always a few deadheads to steer clear of. Just south of the Virginia border you pass the North Carolina welcome center, where boaters are able to tie to the docks overnight, free of charge.
  
It's early afternoon when you come out of the South Mills lock and begin the 14-mile run down to Elizabeth City and one of the most heralded traditions on the ICW. For more than 25 years this small waterfront town has provided free dockage for passing cruisers, and for almost as long, Fred Fearing and Joe Kramer (aka the Rose Buddies) stopped by the docks each day to welcome boaters with afternoon refreshments and a fresh-cut rose.
  
Kramer has since passed away, but his favorite rose bush now grows by the waterfront, and Elizabeth City's tradition of hospitality remains. There's room at the dock when you arrive and, sure enough, around 4 p.m. the signature Rose Buddy golf cart rolls down the waterfront, inviting boaters to a complementary happy hour on the deck of Grouper's Waterfront Restaurant. An hour later, strangers are becoming new friends thanks to a little wine, cheese and local hospitality (www.discoverelizabethcity.com).
 
Island Layover N 35.905667/W 75.668936
 
After joining the local breakfast scene at the Colonial Restaurant, you say goodbye to your new friends and head south. The Pasquotank River soon broadens into a wide tidal creek, then ushers you into the open expanse of Albemarle Sound. An hour later, Roanoke Island appears on the horizon, and you look for the branching channel that will lead you to the island's eastern shore and the picturesque town of Manteo.

Near the mouth of Shallowbag Bay, you pass the restored structure of a coastal warning display tower. Built by the U.S. Weather Bureau at the end of the 19th century, these towers once stretched up and down the coast and displayed lights and storm warning flags to alert fleets of the approach of inclement weather. Today, only a few of these towers survive.

The Shallowbag Bay Marina offers good transient accommodations (www.viningsmarine.com), but you opt for a new option, the Marshes Light Marina, which tucks right into the southern end of the town's central historic district. The marina is part of a development that will include single-family homes, a boutique hotel, waterfront condos and shops. The amenities are nice, but you are most interested in the location, which puts you within walking distance of all the downtown shops and restaurants.

Plan to visit the Full Moon Cafe at some point during your stay, and plan to stay in Manteo for at least a day or two. Take in the North Carolina Maritime Museum at the George Washington Creef Boathouse and visit the rebuilt Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse. Rental cars are easy to come by, and Kitty Hawk is just down the road. After you visit the Wright Brothers National Memorial, stop by Kitty Hawk Kites (www.kittyhawk.com) and pick up a kite to test the sea breezes for yourself. If you'd rather keep to the water, try Nag Head Waterworks for a kayak tour or book one of the many local charter boats for a day of fishing (www.rentalboatcharters.com). Or, for a shore-side change of pace, schedule a tour of nearby Weeping Radish Farm Brewery (www.weepingradish.com) and bring back some of their fresh-made brats and beers for a dockside cookout.