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Virtual Voyage: Crystal River
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Take a trip down the picturesque Crystal River.
By Pierce Hoover
Manatee Crossing
After two days and a night at sea, the crew is ready for a break. In the past weeks you've made your way eastward along the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, knowing that a stretch of open water lay ahead. There was a three-day wait in Destin, Florida, for a favorable weather forecast. Then you finally took the plunge and set a course for pen water, then turned to the southeast. This route carried you well to the west of the shallows of Florida's Big Bend. At one point, you were nearly 100 miles from land, but with modest seas and light winds, the passage proved uneventful — save for that pod of dolphins that kept you company for half the afternoon.
First Light W 83.201/N 28.912
Sunrise is still a half-hour away, but the sky is already lightening perceptibly, giving form to the tower supporting the flashing red light you've been aiming at for the past 20 minutes. Your eastward course toward Red #2 has kept you well south of Seahorse Reef and on course for a morning landfall.
Now you have about 20 miles of open water remaining, and soon you will see the tall cooling towers of the Crystal River nuclear power plant silhouetted by the morning sun. While the first mate whips up a hot breakfast, you check your bearings and note that you are abreast of markers 3 and 4, which sit at the entrance to the barge channel leading to the power plant and the start of the ill-fated Cross Florida Greenway channel. Originally known as the Cross Florida Barge Canal, this big dig was started in the 1970s with the intention of bisecting the northern edge of the Florida peninsula, cutting days or weeks off a circumnavigation from the Gulf to the Atlantic. The project was eventually abandoned for environmental and political reasons.
By the time you've finished your coffee and eggs, the less-imposing but very welcome channel leading into Crystal River has come into view. As with most channels in this part of the state, where shoal-depth waters can extend 10 or more miles from shore, it's important you pay close attention to the marks as you make your way toward shore. Once past the narrow cut at Shell Island, it's smooth cruising through the unspoiled marshlands that line the riverbanks.
Springs Break W 82.598/N 28.893
The three-mile-long Crystal River terminates at its namesake town, which is built around the island-dotted lagoon known as Kings Bay. Several dozen freshwater springs seep into this bay, keeping water temperatures in the 70s, even during colder winter months.
Though brisk by human standards, the waters of Kings Bay provide a haven for manatees, and between the months of December and March it's not uncommon to have 100 or more of these gentle "sea cows" lolling about. Because slow-moving manatees are easy targets for powerboat bows and props, no-wake regulations are in effect for the entire bay.
With throttles pulled back, you proceed to the eastern side of the bay, where a rustic waterfront bait shop flanks a row of moored cruising boats. This is Pete's Pier, the only marina in the Bay that can handle larger transient boats. Fortunately, you've called ahead (352-795-3302) to reserve a slip. A variety of restaurants and several supermarkets are within walking or dinghy distance, and the calm waters are ideal for exploration by small boat or kayak.
Spend any time on the water and you'll likely see some of the bay's most famous residents. But if you want a closer look, it's often best to get professional help. Several dive shops around the bay offer snorkel tours that teach you how to approach manatees in a manner that complies with local and federal laws and is also non-stressful to the animals. A longtime favorite is Bird's Underwater, just off highway 17 or a short dinghy ride from your boat. www.birdsunderwater.com
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