Harbour Island, famous for its pink sand beach, is one of the most laid-back—yet most sophisticated—destinations in all of the Bahamas.
By John Clemans
SAND CITY: Harbour Island Beach is a favorite of romance-inclined visitors.
Photo: Scott Pearson
If Harbour Island were as accessible as Bimini, Lucaya or even the Abacos, it would eclipse them all as a cruising destination. But it's almost four times as far from South Florida as is Bimini, and a step farther than the Abacos—about 200 nautical miles as the crow flies. Plus, like the coveted Sorcerer's Stone in the bowels of Hogwarts, it's guarded by an intricate passage, called the Devil's Backbone (see box), that threatens intruders with dire consequences should they make the slightest false step.
Such was the fate of the 85 "Eleutheran Adventurers—the first British colonists in the Bahamas—who ran aground on the Backbone in the 1650s and spent a month in Preacher's Cave on the northern tip of Eleuthera. Some found their way to the narrow, 3.5-mile-long Harbour Island just to the east, and others to nearby Spanish Wells.
Harbour Island's colonial past remains alive in the architecture of the picket-fenced buildings along the flower-lined streets of Dunmore Town, the island's only settlement. Some are vacation homes of celebrities; some have been turned into distinctive hotels: Rock House, The Landing, Romora Bay. The architecture and the fabulous pink sand beach on the eastern side make Harbour Island an unforgettable cruising destination. Situated on the Atlantic edge of the Bahamas, east of the Berry Islands, southeast of the Abacos and northeast of Nassau, it's a two-day trip for all but the fastest boats. Next stop: Africa.
Formed from pink coral, which accounts for its color, the wide Harbour Island Beach is arguably the Bahamas' most beautiful, drawing visitors from around the world and providing a stunning setting for such upscale resorts as Pink Sands, Coral Sands and the Dunmore Beach Club. The friendly, picturesque town, which is pleasantly hilly, the spectacular beach and the number of first-rate hotels, all of which boast fine restaurants, give Harbour Island a blend of quaintness and refinement unique in the Bahamas. But be forewarned: Prices are high in Harbour Island.
Two marinas serve the island: Valentines (www.valentinesresort.com), where dockmaster Marcus Pinder always provides a warm welcome; and Harbour Island Marina (www.harbourislandmarina.com). Both marinas have been completely remodeled with updated electrical service and Wi-Fi. Big-game fishing abounds just to the east (to reach it, follow the channel to the south), and Harbour Island hosts a leg of the Bahamas Billfish Championship. A multi-story villa complex is under construction. Both marinas are exposed in a westerly blow, and the closest hurricane hole is Spanish Wells.
Rent a golf cart to tour the town and for quick access to the beach, where horseback riding is available. Stop by the Dunmore Deli, Tingum Village (for Bahamian fare) and Arthur's Bakery (try the jalapeno cheese bread). Fish for bonefish, yellowtail, wahoo and billfish. Divers head for the Glass Window Bridge and The Arch. There's great snorkeling on the Backbone—don't miss "the train wreck. Once at Harbour Island, you never have to leave, and you won't want to.
The Devil's Backbone
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| Photo: Mediamarine |
Visitors can easily reach Harbour Island by air via North Eleuthera Airport and water taxi to Dunmore Town. Access by water is another matter. There's a cut on the Atlantic side to the south, but the northern tip of Eleuthera is surrounded by reefs, one of which, the Devil's Backbone, blocks the entrance to North Bay and the docks of Harbour Island. The bay itself also presents navigation hazards because of its shallowness. Unless you have memorized the route, don't attempt the passage through the reef and along the beach. When approaching, stop in 20 feet of water off Ridley Head or Bridge Point and call a pilot on Channel 16. One is always on call, and they even advertise in cruising guides. The pilot will board your boat, tie his skiff behind and take the helm. He will steer through Bridge Point channel and along the beach, passing far closer to the shore than you'd imagine possible. Following another boat rather than hiring a pilot is not a good idea unless you're positive that the other skipper is well schooled in the extremely narrow, winding route. With a pilot at your helm you can sit back and enjoy the spectacular view of the reef and the shallows and arrive safely at your destination.
FISH TALES IN PARADISE: Harbour Island's two marinas provide all amenities, including updated shore power and Wi-Fi Internet access. Send your fish stories to the folks back home while relaxing on the dock with a cool drink.
Photo: Scott Pearson
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