Cruising the Canadian Maritimes

A cruise to Maine features prominently on many boaters' bucket lists, and for good reason. But just past Maine's craggy coastlines and scenic harbor towns there is another spectacular coastal realm that is too often overlooked by cruisers. The Canadian Maritimes ? New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island ? offer scenery that is equally spectacular and far more varied than Maine. The region also offers several distinct cultures and three languages ? English, French and Gaelic. Here's a brief overview of what lies just beyond the eastern shores of the United States.

Easing into New Brunswick
Continuing northeast from Maine, cruisers enter the Bay of Fundy and the province of New Brunswick. This section of the Maritimes is a mix of original French and later British colonies with heavy influences from Loyalists fleeing the American Revolution.

The first stop is St. Andrews, with a marina in the center of the town's waterfront district. Restaurants, shops and boutiques are quaintly touristy ? even the hardware store devotes as much space to trinkets as tools. Some of the historically preserved buildings are actually American ? brought from Maine by barge with Loyalists in 1783.

Grand Manan Island, just five miles off the coast of Maine, is another popular stop for those wanting just a taste of Canada. Nutrients stirred from the deep by Bay of Fundy tides make this area at the entrance to the bay particularly appealing to whales and, therefore, whale watchers.

Forty miles farther to the east, Saint John, the oldest incorporated city in Canada, is quite cosmopolitan. A revitalized downtown waterfront includes a small floating dock marina tucked behind the coast guard station, but strong currents, a 27-foot tide range and its exposed location make it less desirable for long stays. Cruisers in the know head through the Reversing Falls and dock at one of several marinas on the lower St. John River, still just minutes from downtown by taxi.

St. John River
Rolling hills and secluded coves draw cruisers up the well-buoyed 78 nautical miles of St. John River to Fredericton. A dam blocks navigation beyond, and a 2-knot tidal current runs both up and down the river. Call on VHF Channel 16 when approaching the two cable ferries that cross the river. A fixed 19-foot-high pedestrian bridge crosses the river half a mile downstream of the marina in Fredericton.

Warm river water keeps inland temperatures noticeably milder than in Saint John and reduces fog greatly. Stops along the way include Evandale, an old steamer stop with a six-room, 113-year-old inn, restaurant and marina, and Gagetown, a tiny, quaint town nestled along the river's edge. Most boats stop at the marina in Oromocto for fuel then continue the 15 miles to Fredericton for dockage.

Fredericton is home to both the provincial government and two universities. The city's arts, theater and night life are typical of state capitals and college towns. Shopping and dining are on par with the best tourist destinations. But this is intertwined with the city's 300-year history as both a French and British colony. Just yards from the marina, the 19th-century military barracks and parade grounds are a working museum with daily re-enactments and also the center of events for regular outdoor concerts and numerous festivals throughout the summer ? Canada Day on July 1 and the Harvest Jazz & Blues Festival in mid-September are the biggest.

Across the Bay of Fundy
The upper reaches of the Bay of Fundy boast the highest tides on earth. Burncoat Head, at the top of the bay, regularly sees a 40-foot tide drop from high to low water and occasionally over 56 feet. Cruising the Bay of Fundy isn't practical north of Saint John. When crossing the bay ? 40 nautical miles from Saint John to Digby, Nova Scotia ? respect not only the 3-knot tidal current but what that current can do to seas as it pushes against a strong breeze or sweeps across underwater seamounts and shoals. Sub-50-degree water also creates dense fog quickly with just a switch in wind direction. Cruisers not wanting to take on the bay can instead cross 86 nautical miles from Bar Harbor, Maine, to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia.

Nova Scotia's rugged coast and mountains provide scenery as varied and impressive as anywhere in Maine. Culture is decidedly French in the southwest, noticeably Scottish in the northeast and British underlying all throughout.

A narrow cut separates the Bay of Fundy from the Annapolis River Valley. At the southeastern end, the area's only yacht marina sits adjacent to the Digby waterfront. While there are shops and restaurants near the marina, this isn't a prime tourist locale, though it's definitely worth a stop for some famous Digby scallops.

Just 10 miles away, Annapolis Royal was first colonized by the French in 1604 ? predated on the North American mainland only by Spanish St. Augustine in Florida. The town wharf dries out at low tide, so plan to anchor out and dinghy in.

Yarmouth, on Nova Scotia's southwestern Acadian Shores, was the hot tourist spot when ferries landed here from Maine. The town has lost some luster in the few years since the last ferry ran. The waterfront caters primarily to commercial fishing boats, although a new marina downtown makes this a good stop for supplies and provisions.

The South Shore to Halifax
Along Nova Scotia's southwestern coast, the Lighthouse Route ? Federal Highway 3 ? winds through shore-side communities and spectacular scenery. This same view from sea is breathtaking. Heading northeast from the southern tip of Nova Scotia, Shelburne's marina sits at the center of the town founded by Loyalists in 1783.

Nearly 100 miles farther along the coast, Lunenburg is so popular with boaters that advanced reservations are suggested. One of the oldest towns in Nova Scotia and decidedly German in origin, Lunenburg's shipbuilding and fishing heritage is proudly on display. This fairly large town parallels the waterfront for three blocks inland, making it worth a longer stopover.

Just a few miles farther up the coast, the marina at Mahone Bay sits at the seaward edge of the town. Here, a long row of fishing cottages became retail stores and restaurants. The main town center is just half a mile farther up the river.

Another short hop up the coast, Chester's main community sits inland, but along the harbor the old part of town has become an upscale shopping district with boutiques, cafes, taverns and a playhouse. A community swimming pool overlooks the harbor and public wharf, just yards away from the marina.

Halifax is the largest city in the Canadian Maritimes and a major force in Canada's economy. The city's waterfront development efforts focus on its rich maritime heritage and include a half-mile of floating docks for recreational boats. The docks at Murphy's Cable Wharf, as well as those near the Maritime Museum and Summit Plaza, are closest to restaurants and shopping and somewhat less bothered by wakes of ships and pilot boats that pass both day and night.

For more tranquil accommodations, many boaters head inland past downtown Halifax to Dartmouth Yacht Club for slips or repairs or private Bedford Basin Yacht Club. On the south side of Halifax, Armdale Yacht Club and Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron both boast beautiful facilities but all require ground transportation to reach the city center.

East and North
Nova Scotia has some 200 miles of particularly rugged yet beautiful coast east of Halifax, but the region has few cruising amenities. Twenty miles beyond Halifax, the Sea Rover Resort & Marina is a newly constructed marina, restaurant and inn worth a visit, though not close to a town. Another 75 miles east, Liscombe Lodge is a stunning spot, although also isolated from town. At the quiet resort hiking trails, complete with a suspension bridge, salmon pools and a fish ladder, extend for six miles along the Liscombe River. One lone 60-foot face dock is protected from the current by a bend in the river, yet it's within earshot of rapids just upstream.

Just a few miles farther east, Sherbrooke Village, at the upper navigable reaches of the St. Marys River, is a working museum offering a snapshot of Nova Scotia waterfront community life in 1860. A public face dock accommodates half a dozen boats, though without electrical hookups.

Between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island, the Strait of Canso is wide enough to allow ships through on their way to the St. Lawrence Seaway. Canso, at the southern end of the strait, is a good overnight stop for fuel, as is Port Hawkesbury, just before the lock that separates Northumberland Strait, north of Nova Scotia, from the Atlantic Ocean to the south.

Rather than heading north through the strait toward Prince Edward Island, many boaters instead head east to St. Peter's, where a lock lifts them to Bras d'Or Lake (pronounced "bradoor"). Not a true lake, but open to the sea through a narrow passage at the northern end of Cape Breton Island, Bras d'Or is well worth the side trip. Secluded anchorages abound, and marinas at St. Peter's and Baddeck are all steps from town. From Baddeck, it's about 150 miles northeast to Newfoundland.

Northumberland Strait, which separates Nova Scotia from Prince Edward Island, is much warmer than the Atlantic south of Nova Scotia. Water in the low 70s moderates air temperatures, makes fog rare and also helps herring thrive, which brings numerous whales and seals.

Roughly 75 miles northwest of the Strait of Canso on the northern shore of Nova Scotia, Pictou's waterfront includes a marina and a replica of the square-rigger Hector that brought the first Scotts here in 1773. Today, the town is a blend of artists, commercial lobstermen and summer vacationers. From Pictou, head 50 miles west along Nova Scotia's coast to the luxurious Fox Harb'r Golf Resort & Spa, or it's about the same distance northwest or northeast to Charlottetown or Montague on Prince Edward Island.

Prince Edward Island
Prince Edward Island (PEI, as it's known locally) takes its moniker, "the gentle island," in part from its unique landscape. The rocks that form Nova Scotia are among the oldest on the planet ? 1.4 billion years ? but PEI is made of sediment deposited by glaciers just 300 million years ago. Rolling green hills, plowed in furrows because of the rich soil, contrast red cliffs and red-sand beaches.

The island is shaped like a crooked smile, spanning 175 miles from tip to tip, but most cruisers will stay along 100 miles of coast from Summerside on the south coast through Montague, along the island's eastern shore. Warm waters and sandy beaches lure vacationers and give Summerside a decidedly "beach town" feel.

Charlottetown is both the provincial capital of PEI and also the birthplace of Canadian independence ? known as "confederation." The marina is at the heart of the city's lively waterfront, where frequent summertime festivals and nightly live music draw locals and tourists alike.

Cruisers who want to get even farther off the beaten path should explore the east coast of PEI. Montague is a good place to start. Once a loading facility at the terminus of a railroad spur, the marina sits at the center of town. Three restaurants and a small shipbuilding museum are adjacent to a marina at Cardigan. The protected harbor at Souris, near the northeastern tip of the island, is popular for boaters headed to PEI's north coast or the Magdalen Islands.

While there are many beautiful harbors along PEI's north coast, few yachts travel here. The coast experiences far less tide than elsewhere ? less than 3 feet compared to 9-foot tides on the south side of the island, but sandy shoals shift after storms. Commercial fishing boats here are built with shallow draft and protected propellers to push over bars with only 3-foot controlling water. Most of the fishing harbors are also away from towns. North Rustico and Stanley Bridge are exceptions, but check inlet depths and plan accommodations with commercial harbor authorities ahead of time, or visit this coast by car.

The northern coast of New Brunswick, which flanks PEI, is quite French, although language is not an obstacle the way it can be in Quebec province to the north. Low coastal marshes and sandy beaches dominate the landscape. Those beaches and warm seawater swell the population during nice weekend days in the summertime. Abundant fresh seafood is a predominant export and also integral to the local Acadian cuisine.

Shediac is a popular spot for PEI cruisers ? about 50 nautical miles southwest from Summerside. The marina at Point du Chene is as nice as any in the region. It's a bit outside of town, but there are a few shops and restaurants on the adjacent wharf. Shediac Bay Yacht Club & Marina is closer to town but requires a short cab ride for restaurants or any basic needs.

In Bouctouche, less than 20 miles north of Shediac, the small but lively town center is just a short walk from the marina. The area offers bicycle and walking trails and a mile-long boardwalk build atop the dunes.

Beyond the Maritimes
It's roughly 100 nautical miles from the northwest tip of PEI to St. Lawrence Seaway, another 400 to Quebec City and an additional 150 nautical miles to Montreal. Here boaters can choose to head south on the Champlain Waterway or continue west to Lake Ontario. Either route leads down the Hudson River to New York City, completing the 2,400-mile Down East Circle Route. Whether for a short trip beyond Maine or the entire circle, don't overlook Canada's spectacular coast when checking off that bucket list.

Resources
New Brunswick
» Capital City Boat Club
capitalcityboatclub.com

» Gagetown Marina
gagetownmarina.ca

» Market Square
sjwaterfront.com

» Oromocto Boat Club
oromoctoboatclub.ca

» Pointe du Chene Yacht Club
pcyc-nb.ca

» Royal Kennebeccasis Yacht Club
rkyc.nb.ca

» Saint John Marina
saintjohnmarina.ca

» Saint John Power Boat Club
sjpowerboatclub.ca

» Sawmill Point Boat Basin
bouctouchemarina.com

» Shediac Bay Yacht Club and Marina
shediacbayyachtclub.ca

Nova Scotia
» Armdale Yacht Club
armdaleyachtclub.ns.ca

» Baddeck Marine
baddeckmarine.com

» Bedford Basin Yacht Club
bbyc.ca

» Cape Canso Marina
902-366-2937

» Chester Yacht Club
cyc.ns.ca

» Dartmouth Yacht Club
dyc.ns.ca

» Fox Harb'r
foxharbr.com

» Liscombe Lodge
liscombelodge.ca

» Lunenburg Marina
my-waterfront.ca

» Mahone Bay Civic Marina
mahonebaycivicmarina.ca

» Pictou
townofpictou.ca

» Port Hawkesbury Harbour
902-625-0855

» Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron
rnsys.com

» Royal Western Nova Scotia Yacht Club
rwnsyc.ca

» Sea Rover Resort
searovermarina.com

» Shelburne Harbour Yacht Club
shyc.ca

» Sherbrooke Village
sherbrookevillage.ca

» Yarmouth
waterfront@townofyarmouth.ca

Prince Edward Island
» Montegue Marina
montaguemarina.com

» Quartermaster Marine
quartermastermarine.com

» Silver Fox Curling and Yacht Club
silverfox-pei.com

» Souris Harbour Authority
sourisharbourauthority.com