Sampling the Canadian Gulf Islands

The hundreds of islands of the San Juan and Gulf Island archipelago form one of the best cruising grounds to be found anywhere. Here, tucked away within a rugged natural beauty, you will find scenic harbors, marine parks, quaint villages, fine foods, flowers, farmer's markets, rural golf and much more.

In our biased view, taking in Washington's San Juan Islands but not crossing the border to visit Canada's Gulf Islands would be to miss half the adventure. As Canadian marine writers traveling the northwest, too often we meet U.S. boaters who are tentative about crossing the border north to the Gulf Islands. We regularly field requests for assistance in laying out Gulf Island cruise plans taking in our favorite ports.

Narrowing the list of favorites is always a challenge, as the region is home to an abundance of both popular favorites and hidden gems. The following cruise plan is but a sampling of what you can expect to find in the Canadian Gulf Islands.

Shore Leave #1
Sidney, Vancouver Island

Sidney-by-the-Sea's convenient location, coupled with the fact that it is a CBSA port of entry, makes it an excellent first stop for boaters visiting from the United States. It also has two of the area's finest marinas ? Port Sidney Marina and Van Isle Marina, which has Sidney's only fuel dock.

Villagelike Sidney allows you to walk everywhere. The many unique shops and BC Liquor Store nearby ease provisioning. Known as a "book town" for its eight independent book stores, this is a great place to fill your summer reading list before venturing out for a waterfront walk, fine meal or visit to the new Shaw Ocean Discovery Centre, an aquarium and marine education center kids love. Bicyclists in the crew should know Sidney is on the flat Lochside Regional Trail that runs 18 miles over farmlands and wooden trestles to downtown Victoria. If you have never been, hop on a bus or take a taxi to visit world-famous Butchart Gardens.

Butchart Gardens
One hundred and seven years ago, Jenny Butchart conceived the idea of creating a garden to cover up the scars left by her husband's abandoned limestone quarry. Little did she know one day Butchart Gardens would become world famous and attract nearly a million visitors annually. Designated a national historic site of Canada, the gardens change according to the seasons and always provide a colorful surprise. Boaters can visit the gardens by bus or taxi or by cruising to southern Saanich Peninsula and mooring in Butchart Cove near Brentwood Bay.

Sidney Resources
» Butchart Gardens; 250-652-4422; butchartgardens.com
» Canada Customs (CBSA); 888-226-7277; cbsa-asfc.gc.ca
» Coast Guard; 250-363-2994; VHF 16
» Port Sidney Marina; 250-655-3711; portsidney.com; VHF 66A
» Sidney Visitor Info Centre; 250-665-7362
» Van Isle Marina; 250-656-1138; vanislemarina.com; VHF 66A

When in Canada
Canadian Charts: Before navigating British Columbia waters, make sure you have the proper charts for the region, and note the differences from U.S. charts. For the Gulf Island/southern Vancouver Island region, we recommend chart book 3313, Gulf Islands, published by the Canadian Hydrographic Service and sold at marine supply stores.

Note: U.S. charts are in fathoms and feet, and most Canadian charts are metric. A meter (metre in Canada) equals 39.37 inches. Hint: 2 meters equals 6 feet 7 inches, slightly more than 1 fathom (6 feet). Also note that depths are reduced to chart datum (lowest normal tide), while depths in the United States are reduced to mean lower low water.

Canadian Navigation: The Canadian coast guard publication The Canadian Aids to Navigation System explains the buoyage and light system in Canada and is recommended reading. You can find a copy at most marine supply stores in Canada.

VHF Radio Operator's Permit: Canada requires each person operating a VHF radio to have a restricted operator's certificate. U.S. citizens visiting Canada can apply for the ROC online at fcc.gov. The United States-issued permit is good for life and costs $60.

Weather Broadcasts: For continuous VHF weather broadcasts for the Gulf Island area, use WX2 (16.2.4 MHz). For British Columbia weather updates by telephone, call 250-363-6880.

Clearing Customs: Make sure all passengers have photo identification and proof of citizenship documents. Canada Border Services Agency (cbsa-asfc.gc.ca) requires all U.S. boaters to call the telephone-reporting center at 888-226-7277 for instructions. Make sure you have the following information at hand: full name, date of birth and citizenship for every person on the boat; destination, purpose of trip and length of stay in Canada for each passenger who is not a Canadian resident; passport and visa information of passengers, if applicable. You also have to declare all goods being imported, including firearms and weapons, and report all currency and monetary instruments of a value equal to or greater than $10,000 CAD. If no further verification is required, the border services officer will issue you a report number that you will need to post in a dockside window of your boat.

Shore Leave #2
Otter Bay Marina, North Pender Island

From Sidney, head north on Sansum Narrows to North Pender Island. Once past Mouat Point you will see the BC Ferries terminal ahead, and to the right is a rocky point decorated with Canada's provincial flags. Behind the point lies Otter Bay Marina, a special place featuring all the ingredients we love about cruising the Canadian Gulf Islands.

Here you will find a relaxed atmosphere conducive to chatting with neighbors, putting one's feet up in the cockpit with a good book and venturing up to the pool, the volleyball or badminton courts or the espresso bar in the main building.

One of Otter Bay's biggest bonuses, from this boating golfer's point of view, is its close proximity to one of the Gulf Islands' finest golf courses, Pender Island Golf & Country Club. For a small fee you can catch a shuttle bus up the hill and hop on this lovely, rolling nine-hole course ? no tee times required.

Pender Island Golf & Country Club
Pender Island Golf & Country Club is rated as a par 34 over nine holes. The hilly track plays 2,505 yards from the blue tees and is one of the prettiest tests of golf in the region. My favorite hole is the signature 230-yard par three number eight, requiring an accurate tee shot to clear a pond and tree guarding the front of the green from an 80-foot-high tee box placed between evergreens; it's daunting but fun. Should your timing be right, try to catch breakfast at Birdie's Bistro on the clubhouse deck overlooking this delightful course. It is a great way to start your round.

Otter Bay Resources
» Birdie's Bistro; 250-629-6665
» Otter Bay Marina; 250-629-3579; otterbaymarina.ca
» Pender Island Golf & Country Club; 250-629-6659; penderislandgolf.com

Shore Leave #3
Ganges Harbour, Salt Spring Island

From Otter Bay, head west across Sansum Narrows to meet Captain Passage south of Prevost Island. Follow the Salt Spring Island shoreline into Ganges Harbour.

Ganges Harbour is to the Canadian Gulf Islands what Friday Harbor is to the American San Juan Islands: It is the islands' center of commerce, tourism and boating activity. Ganges has ample protected anchorages, well-equipped marinas and a full complement of marine services and support. We love this bustling village for its diverse shopping, entertainment and dining. Its friendly, relaxed atmosphere and artistic vibe comes from Salt Spring's free spirits who moved here in the 1960s and never left. Try to be in Ganges on a weekend to take in the Saturday Market in Centennial Park, which runs from April to October. Vendors are required to "make it, bake it or grow it" themselves.

When the crew gets hungry, head to Barb's Buns for coffee and at least one of their many varieties of croissants. For a special dining experience, we recommend you make reservations at Hastings House.

Hastings House Restaurant
The award-winning Hastings House is near Salt Spring Marina, at Harbour's End, on a beautiful piece of property overlooking Ganges Harbour. The half-timber Tudor-style manor, built in 1940, and its surrounding grounds and gardens are reminiscent of an earlier era of elegance and simplicity.

On special occasions we celebrate at this refined yet relaxed restaurant where the menu changes daily and only the freshest meats and seafood from local farms and waters are served. The gardens and trees of the estate supply the fresh produce and herbs used every day in the Hastings House kitchen.

On a recent visit we had delicious entrees of grilled leg of Salt Spring Island lamb and pan-seared Pacific halibut accompanied by Salt Spring Vineyard's Pinot Blanc ? simply out of this world.

Ganges Harbour Resources
» Ganges Marina; 250-537-5242; gangesmarina.com; VHF 66A
» Hastings House Restaurant; 250-537-2362; hastingshouse.com
» Salt Spring Marina; 250-537-5810; saltspringmarina.com; VHF 66A

Shore Leave #4
Telegraph Harbour, Thetis Island

From Ganges Harbour, catch Captain Passage and turn north to the Trincomali Channel. The channel parallels the inside of Galiano and Valdes Islands, running from Active Pass in the south and joining Pylades Channel and Gabriola Passage in the north to make the 30-mile-long connector we refer to as the Gulf Island super highway. If it times out, drop the lunch hook at Wallace Island, a British Columbia marine park off Houston Passage. From Wallace Island, round Kuper Island's southern tip and head northward into the tranquil Telegraph Harbour.

Once there, you have a choice of two friendly marinas vying for your business: Thetis Island Marina and Telegraph Harbour Marina. Both are fully equipped to make your stay relaxed and fun.

For a truly unique experience, we highly recommend you walk the mile or two to the BC Ferries terminal to catch a ride to Chemainus ? "The Little Town That Did" ? to view its many colorful murals and sculptures depicting the story of the region. The golfers on board can take their clubs along to play the Mount Brenton Golf Course.

Chemainus Murals
During the early 1980s, Vancouver Island's forest industry was in decline, and Chemainus' mill operations were in financial trouble. In 1982, the district council began a downtown revitalization project to freshen up Chemainus' tired main street. A year later the mills closed, after running for 120 years, and left 700 people unemployed. Residents rallied to beautify the downtown core with a logging theme. Today, Chemainus has more than three dozen murals, depicting real people and life from the past, which have become world-famous.

Telegraph Harbour Resources
» Telegraph Harbour Marina; 250-246-9511; telegraphharbour.com; VHF 66A
» Thetis Island Marina; 250-246-3464; thetisisland.com; VHF 66A
» Mount Brenton Golf Course; 250-246-9322; mountbrentongolf.com

Shore Leave #5
Nanaimo Harbour, Vancouver Island

To get to Nanaimo, this cruise's northernmost port and an excellent jumping-off place for points north, head up Stuart Channel past De Courcy Island to Dodd Narrows. (If you get a chance, stop at Pirate's Cove, another favorite British Columbia marine park.) Try to make the passage on or near slack tide.

Dodd Narrows leads to Northumberland Channel past the Gabriola bluffs and eventually into Nanaimo ? the Harbour City. Since the early 1850s when coal was discovered here, Nanaimo welcomed ships to its lovely natural harbor, a tradition that continues today. Hence, boaters will find ample moorage choices.

Stay and Play in Nanaimo
Nanaimo is a customs port of entry, and the CBSA office is located behind the seaplane terminal, north of the public docks. The Nanaimo Port Authority runs the Boat Haven, Cameron Island Marina and the Visiting Vessel Pier (large vessels) in town. At the mouth of Newcastle Channel, you will find the Nanaimo Yacht Club's guest dock for reciprocal members. Further along the channel are more marinas, boatyards and marine businesses.

Another option is to drop anchor in front of Newcastle Island. Formed by Newcastle and Protection Islands, the anchorage is a popular spot during summer cruising season. The attraction is Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park with its 20 miles of walking trails, beaches, wildlife, camping, native culture and 1930s pavilion. If you moor downtown, you can ride a small ferry or take the dinghy to Newcastle Island. It really is a jewel and well worth a visit.

If you overnight in Newcastle anchorage, you will want to catch a sunset dinner on the deck of the Dinghy Dock Pub, Canada's first floating pub. Provisioning is easy from any of the NPA's downtown marinas. Across the road, the Port Place Mall has Thrifty Foods grocery store, a BC Liquor Store, London Drugs and the Great Canadian Casino. If you head a short block past Nanaimo's iconic Bastion to downtown, you will find Commercial Street makes a nice place to stroll with its unique shops, new conference center and Nanaimo Museum. For a really great walk, follow the waterfront north along the shore. The walkway's three miles of ocean, island and mountain views and parks will show you why we love it here.

Nanaimo Harbour Resources
» Nanaimo Port Authority Marinas; 250-755-1216; npa.ca; VHF 67
» Nanaimo Shipyard Group; 250-753-1151; nanaimoshipyard.com
» Nanaimo Yacht Club; 250-754-7011; nanaimoyc.ca
» Stones Marina & Boatyard; 250-753-4232; stonesmarina.com

Shore Leave #6
Genoa Bay, Vancouver Island

For the last and longest (35 miles) leg of our cruise, head south through Dodd Narrows and stay on Stuart Channel to Sansum Narrows, which divides Salt Spring and Vancouver Island. Head south to Separation Point and then round westward into Cowichan Bay. You will find Genoa Bay Marina & Cafe to the north, tucked under steep tree-covered Mount Tzouhalem. This marina is a longtime favorite stop of ours, and the owners continue the tradition of making Genoa Bay one of the coziest places in the northwest. The first order of business upon landing is to make a dinner reservation at the rustic Genoa Bay Cafe at the head of the marina. From then on, the day is yours.

This is mostly a put-your-feet-up-and-relax kind of place. Make sure you walk on the F dock to view the found metal art pieces by Tom Faue decorating the walls of the floating homes.

If exploring is on your mind, call Executive Travel shuttle service for the area. Have the shuttle run you up to Cherry Point Vineyards for lunch at the bistro, and drop by the wine- tasting room to sample some of the winery's award-winning pinot blanc, pinot gris, pinot noire, agria, castel, ortega, gewurztraminer, zweigeltrebe, siegerrebe, epicure petit and milo varieties.

Genoa Bay Resources
» Cherry Point Vineyards; 250-743-1272; cherrypointvineyards.com
» Executive Travel & Tourism; 250-891-3881
» Genoa Bay Marina & Cafe; 250-746-7621; genoabaymarina.com; VHF 66A