Anchoring Made Easier

An electric windlass is a common fixture on boats over about 30 feet, because the bigger the boat, the bigger the anchor-and the bigger the anchor, the heavier it is. While lowering a heavy anchor may not be overly demanding, retrieving it is another matter. A windlass substitutes an electric motor for muscle power and saves boat owners from strains, sprains and chiropractor bills. It is to anchoring what an autopilot is to steering.

A windlass can be operated from the helm, from the bow (with deck switches) or with a remote control. However, such push-button operation can mislead boat owners into thinking that installing an electric windlass will eliminate the need to visit the bow. Because an anchor should be secured so that it can't fall or be accidentally deployed when under way, and because a windlass should not be used to hold a boat at anchor, people power is still required. "Too many owners believe that with a windlass they can stay at the helm when anchoring, but a windlass isn't a cleat," says Tim Dean, a windlass specialist at Florida Rigging & Hydraulics. "And anchors should be strapped down after they're raised."

Windlasses come in horizontal and vertical configurations. Horizontal windlasses have their motors above the deck; vertical windlasses have them below the deck in the anchor locker. Vertical windlasses generally provide more pulling power because they provide a better bite on the line; a vertical windlass' motor also is better protected from the elements. But limited rope locker depth often prevents installation of a vertical windlass. The windlass shown here, installed on a 36-footer, is a Lewmar Horizon 900 Freefall horizontal windlass. Installation instructions are provided, and a competent do-it-yourselfer should be able to follow them.

Step 1. Decide where everything will go. The major components are the windlass, deck switches, solenoids or "contactor," circuit breaker and rocker switch. Templates are provided for positioning the windlass and the switches (as shown here). The center of the windlass gypsy and the bow roller must be perfectly aligned. The anchor line should not angle up more than six degrees from the top of the gypsy to the bow roller. This windlass was installed on a flat bow pulpit; on a convex deck, wedges must be used so that the base of the windlass is on a level surface.

Step 2. Using the template, cut two 13/4" holes in the deck with a hole saw, and then trim the excess between them with a jigsaw. Use a rasp and sandpaper to smooth the opening. Fill in any voids with silicone. Paint the exposed edges with epoxy resin or gel coat to prevent water intrusion. Also drill three holes for the studs and one for the cables as indicated on the template. Cored decks may need reinforcing. Using the switch plate for a template, mark the cutout for the rocker switch at the helm. Use a jigsaw or a drill and a rasp or file to make the rectangular opening for the switch.

Step 3. The most time-consuming part of the whole project typically is running the cables from the battery to the circuit breaker and contactor and running the wires from the helm switch to the contactor. This may involve drilling holes through bulkheads and removing paneling and headliners. Wires must be adequately supported, not just draped in hard-to-reach areas, and chafe protection should be provided where the wires pass through bulkheads. We mounted the breaker just inside the cabin door below the electrical panel. (Always switch off the breaker after using the windlass.) The contactor (shown at right) was mounted high on the rope locker bulkhead near the windlass. Both components should be in dry locations. If the contactor is positioned at a distance from the windlass, so that splicing is required, wire size may have to be increased. Number 2 AWG cables were used for the approximately 20-foot runs from the battery to the contactor, the positive via the breaker. The circuit breaker (left) should be placed within 72 inches of the battery.

Step 4. Using templates, drill holes for the deck foot switch wires, insert the wires and mount the deck switches using a good sealant on the undersides. Following the wiring diagram provided, connect the wires from the deck switches to the contactor. For the dash switch, use the right size (14 AWG in this case) marine-grade copper wire. Use waterproof crimp connectors to attach the wires to the switch. Mount the switch on the dash. Follow the wiring diagram for proper wiring. It's a good idea to cover the switch with a clear plastic switch guard to prevent it from being accidentally hit.

Step 5. Cut around the outline of the windlass on the template, remove the outer part of the template and then tape along the outline (to keep sealant from getting on the deck) before removing the rest of the template. Screw studs into the windlass and apply sealant to prevent water from getting under the windlass (see opening photo). Secure the windlass using the nuts provided and aluminum backing plates. After checking everything, make the final battery connections. Use the proper size line and chain, with the proper splice between the two, for your new windlass.