How to Choose Ground Tackle
During my early cruising days I read an informed-sounding treatise expounding the advantages of all-chain anchor rode. No more fear of crowded anchorages, the author claimed, as less scope would be needed. Chain rode also allows for lighter hooks, and holding would increase tenfold. That was a particular draw for me, as by then I had dragged my way through much of the Southeast coast and Bahamas islands. I embraced the all-chain ethos with the devoutness of a converted pagan and replaced my existing rope rode.
Then I discovered some disconcerting truths, one being that the author must have had a very heavy displacement cruiser. With a couple of hundred feet of five-sixteenths-inch BBB chain forward, my old Elco looked like a nose-down beagle hot on a scent. And the author must have been a sound sleeper; either that, or his anchoring was restricted to sandy bottoms and calm water. It sure wasn't the rock-strewn, tidal-plagued anchorages I frequented. After a near-sleepless season aboard the floating equivalent of the Amityville Horror, poorer and wiser, I sadly off-loaded the chain.
The fact is, though, there's a happy medium to be found; a good lead of chain between hook and rope rode does increase holding. And chain rodes have a higher survival rate in hard-bottom anchorages than rope. Responsible boaters adhere to the standard practice of placing a length of chain betwixt anchor stock and rope rode. How much? It's up to the individual. By my observations, 6 to 10 feet seems to be the average in midsize cruisers up to about 35 feet, increasing in proportion to boat size. In spite of my traumatic early experience, I prefer more. I'll opt for as much chain as is practical for the boat to take. These days, I'm usually at the helms of larger cruisers and yachts that can accommodate all-chain rode.
I could say I sleep better knowing I have oversize and heavy ground tackle down. But on the other hand, not sleeping well can be one of the problems with chain - it's a noisy animal, especially when wind and current attack an anchorage. When the boat swings or if the chain comes up against the hull during a tidal change, it can sound like Halloween at the Munster's.
One way to tame the beast is to rig a shock-absorbing snubbing line. My preferred method is to get the ground tackle down and set, then tie a length of line - nylon is best because of its ability to stretch - between boat and chain. I secure the line to a cleat on the foredeck and bend the other end to the chain just forward of the bow. I bend the line to the rode with a rolling hitch.
You can also use a commercially available chain hook. The chain hook has a ring on one end to which the nylon line is bent with a bowline and the hook - it has to be matched to the size of chain aboard - which slips over and grabs a chain link (thus obviating the need for a knot). Once the snubbing line is attached, just ease out the anchor rode until the strain is transferred to the snubbing line. The longer that line, the more effective it will be. The result can be dramatic. The boat will still bounce around in a tumultuous anchorage, but the motion won't be as sharp and abrupt ? and the scrape and rattle of the chain will be ameliorated.
Yachts with a bow or anchor platform with a supportive bobstay secured to a waterline stem fitting or vessels with a towing eye can use the towing eye or stem fitting to fit the snubbing line. One end of the nylon line is bent to that fitting and the other end to the anchor rode. The procedure is the same. After the hook is set, the rode, with the nylon snubbing line attached, is let out until the chain (or rope rode, for that matter, the snubbing line works equally well with either) goes slack and the strain is taken up by the snubbing line.
An added advantage gained by using a waterline stem fitting is that the angle between anchor, bottom and boat is more in line, which increases holding and can allow for less scope if need be. If the snubbing line parts or the knot that bends it to the rode fails, the chain or rope rode will still be in place. The vessel is never put at risk.
Even in tumultuous anchorages, a boat laying bow-on to wind and sea with a snubbed rode will ride relatively comfortably. Due to various circumstances, especially when wind and current are at odds, seas can strike broadside, creating the kind of rock and roll not seen since your last Grateful Dead concert (for those of that generation).
A simple fix that works well is to "spring" the anchor rode so the bow will face the seas. A line somewhat longer than the length of the boat is bent to the anchor rode forward of the stem; the other end is taken to a stern cleat on the side of the boat that's being slapped by the seas. The anchor rode is then let out about half the length of the boat, and the added line is secured at the stern cleat. As that line is hauled in, the bow will spring around and point into the seas. Sweet dreams.
Windlasses and Anchors
What goes down must come up. Unless you have a chiropractor on payroll, you don't want to haul ground tackle by hand. Therefore, if regular anchoring is part of your boating life, a windlass is a must-have. Leave the manual windlasses to the sail set and opt for a name-brand electric or hydraulic-driven model.
So, what are you going to haul up with that windlass? Everybody has his favorite anchors, but it's safe to say no one anchor is designed for every bottom. The best bet is to research the bottoms where you'll anchor and carry the anchor(s) best suited for the situation. Whatever anchor chosen, it's prudent to carry at least one spare with its own dedicated rode.
If you opt for a "lightweight" design, I suggest also carrying a traditional version of the weight (or somewhat heavier) recommended by the manufacturer for the size and displacement of your boat. In my experience, the holding of the lightweight designs are nearly equal to that of their heavier cousins - once they're down and set. Getting a lightweight anchor to set in heavy weather - just when you need to get a hook down and set fast ? can, in my experience, be problematic.




